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About Lake Magazine
MEET THE PRODUCERS

By RENEE LaREAU

From the August 2007 Issue

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Lake Magazine covers the hottest information on the Lake Michigan area.
This time of year, a visit to one of the region’s farmers’ markets is a feast for the eyes, as growers’ booths overflow with fruits and vegetables. Some of the growers you’ll meet are farmers carrying on a way of life begun by their grandparents. Others are newcomers, making their mark with unusual and heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables. But no matter how long they’ve been living off the land, their wares are both beautiful to behold and heavenly to taste. Here, just a few of the producers at the markets this season.

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Trillium Haven Farm

Jenison, Mich.

On their 50-acre farm, Anja Mast and Michael VanderBrug grow unusual greens that you’re unlikely to find at the supermarket, from Japanese Tatsoi (dark green with spoon-shaped leaves) to British Speckled Trout (pale-green leaves with red splotches). At their Fulton Street Market stall, they also sell salad mixes, including a spicy mix of peppery arugula, red and green mustard greens and mizuna, a feathery Chinese variety. “That’s why people come to us,” Mast says. “This is their salad bar every week, for the whole summer.”

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The husband-and-wife team uses no chemical fertilizers, which Mast says is an important part of preserving the natural minerals in the soil that flavor the greens. “Greens in general don’t have strong flavor,” she says, “so you have to have good soil minerals.” They also grow Japanese eggplants, heirloom tomatoes, broccoli and peppers. One perk of life on the farm: Unlike many children, the couple’s kids – Peter, 5, and Zoe, 7 – love a good veggie. “They’ll only eat fresh vegetables now,” Mast says. “They can tell you all the names of the heirloom tomatoes and which ones they like.”

t the market: Saturday: Fulton Street Farmers’ Market, Grand Rapids

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Providence Farms

Saugatuck, Mich.

“Whether it’s a God thing or an evolution thing, a cow is not supposed to eat anything but grass,” says Mike O’Brien. This Missouri native should know: He grew up farming beef and now raises cattle on five Michigan farms stretching from Holland to Glenn. The cows of Providence Farms are 100 percent grass-fed; O’Brien and his wife, Teresa, rotate the herds daily among several paddocks. “They get grass, clean water and kelp [seaweed] as their mineral source, and no antibiotics or hormones,” O’Brien says. “They’re as healthy as can be.”

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Studies have shown that grass-fed, as opposed to grain-fed, beef is good for consumers as well, with high levels of omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants.

Providence Farms also raises sheep, pigs, chickens and turkeys, all of which get a hormone-and-antibiotic-free diet. O’Brien says his market customers appreciate the meats’ distinctive tastes.

“If they’re 50 or younger, they’ll often say, ‘I didn’t know chicken could taste like that,’” he says. “If they’re in their 50s

and above, they’ll say, ‘I haven’t had chicken like this since I

was a kid.’”

Customers aren’t the only ones who are a fan of O’Brien’s chickens. His 5-year-old daughter, Rose, treats them with great affection. “She takes care of the baby chicks,” he says.

At the market:

Friday: Saugatuck Green Market

Saturday: Holland Farmers’ Market

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Ham Family Farm

Allendale, MI

The Hams’ 40-acre farm has been in the family more than 100 years. But that doesn’t mean owners Charlie and Lisa Ham aren’t willing to try new things. Among the Hams’ 37 different crops are personal-sized seedless watermelons, including the Mini Yellow, a popular varietal.

“Personal-sized melons have gotten steadily more popular as family units have gotten smaller,” Charlie says. To help busy working parents put fresh foods on the table during the week, the Hams also sell their wares at the weekday farmers’ markets cropping up outside major Grand Rapids employers, including Grand Valley State University. “Having fresh beans or fresh corn in the middle of the week can be a challenge,” he says. “The answer is to take it to where people work.”

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The resurgence of local farmers’ markets has been a boon. “The whole movement to buy local is certainly helping farmers out a lot,” he says. The Hams use sustainable farming methods, which means “we use practices that encourage rather than reduce the biosystem on the farm,” Ham says. “We use natural compost, not synthetic or fossil-fuel based fertilizers or herbicides.”

On Saturdays – the Hams’ biggest market day – family members rise at 3 a.m. to ensure trucks are loaded by 4:30. Most of the produce is picked the night before, but to ensure peak freshness, Ham likes to pick herbs in the morning. This time of year, the Hams’ market booths are awash in color with purple and orange cauliflower, ancho, poblano and bell peppers, broccoli and 25 tomato varieties, including yellow and red grape tomatoes.

At the market:

Wednesdays and Saturdays: Grand Haven Farmers’ Market

Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays: Fulton Street Farmers’ Market, Grand Rapids

photos BY Johnny Quirin

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Burek Farms

LaPORTE, IND.

Of all the vegetables and fruits Ed Burek grows – green beans, zucchini, summer squash, tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes – he’s especially sweet on one crop in particular: his 75 acres of corn. And he’s not the only one. At the Michigan City Farmers’ Market, “we take 250 to 300 dozen ears and sell out in four hours,” he says. “We take a lot of pride in our sweet corn – it’s our biggie.” Burek says the secrets behind succulent sweet corn are to start with good seed and to keep the cornfields well-hydrated. “Whenever the corn needs a drink of water, it gets a drink,” he says of his extensive irrigation system.

Burek and his wife, Jackie, as well as his mother and three daughters, also put in nearly 5,000 tomato plants this year. That includes heirloom varieties such as the Arkansas Traveler, a pinkish tomato that’s lower in acid. “It eats fabulously,” Burek says. “It’s better than most red tomatoes on the market.” For customers who crave plump beefsteak tomatoes to slice onto their burgers, Burek Farms sells five varieties with brawny, strut-their-stuff names like Big Beef, Better Boy and Celebrity.

Burek shared his passion for farming with a wider audience in 2003, when he wrote a popular, monthly agricultural column for the Herald-Argus newspaper in LaPorte. “People said, ‘I love hearing what’s going on on your farm’,” Burek says.

But more than anything, Burek says he cherishes the relationships with the market goers he’s met in Michigan City every summer weekend for the past 16 years. “These customers have watched my girls grow up from babies,” he says. “They’re almost like family.”

At the market:

Saturdays: MICHIGAN CITY FARMERS’ market, LaPORTE FARMERS’ MARKET

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SCOBEY'S PROODUCE

WAYLAND, MICH

Kalamazoo’s Bank Street Farmers’ Market celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, and Bill and Rose Scobey are among the market’s mainstays, having farmed on their 75-acre property since 1976. “When we get to the market right at 7 a.m., people are there waiting for us to open the doors of the trailer,” says Bill. Behind the trailer doors are sweet corn, tomatoes, beets, green onions, radishes and Swiss chard, among other fruits and vegetables.

“People mainly know me as ‘the sweet corn man,’” says Scobey, who tastes every corn variety he grows. “Some days I get real tired of eating sweet corn, but that’s how you judge things. A

variety may look beautiful but taste terrible.” Scobey says the secret to succulent sweet corn is treating it delicately. “You have to baby it along, and take care of it like it was a precious item – which it is.”

Their market days begin at 4 a.m., end at dusk and include a one-hour drive each way. Of all the hard work, he says the gratitude from his market customers makes it worthwhile. “There are certainly other things I could do to make more money,” Scobey says. “But there would be very few other things I could to get so many compliments. It makes you feel very good.”

At the market:

Saturdays: Bank Street Farmers’ Market, Kalamazoo

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Farmers’ Markets:

The Ultimate Guide

Need to buy a free-range duck egg?

Organic Gouda? We’ve got you covered.

BY Ashley Brown

Michigan Farmers’ Markets

ADA VILLAGE FARMERS’ MARKET

7144 Headly St. May-Oct. Fridays, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. 616-676-9191

The basics: A petite market with five to 12 vendors on the grounds of the Averill Historical Museum, a stone’s throw from the town’s covered bridge. Beyond fruits & veggies: The baked fruit pies are a best seller. Insider tip: Shop between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. – before the food runs out.

BUCHANAN FARMERS’ MARKET

122 Days Ave. May-Oct. Saturdays, 8 a.m.-1 p.m. 269-695-3291

The basics: Ten vendors hang out under an open-air, permanent shelter. Beyond fruits & veggies: Look for the locally produced cheese and artisan breads. Insider tip: In-season fruit goes fast.

GRAND HAVEN FARMERS’ MARKET

Harbor Drive and 1st St., June-Oct. Wednesdays and Saturdays 8 a.m.-2 p.m., 616-842-4910

The basics: Thirty-six vendors on the Grand Haven Harbor at Chinook Pier. Beyond fruits & veggies: Stop to smell the freshly cut flowers. Insider tip: Sweet corn is huge in-season.

GRAND RAPIDS – FULTON STREET FARMERS’ MARKET

1147 E. Fulton St., May-Dec. Tue., Wed., Fri. and Sat., 8 a.m.-4 p.m. 616-454-4118

The basics: Grand Rapids’ biggest open-air market, with 50 vendors, sprawls through the historic Brikyaat area of Midtown. Beyond fruits & veggies: Little Rooster Bread Co.’s breads – including multi-grain, three pepper, and wild rice and onion – are all organic. Insider tip: Avoid traffic and get there via Fulton Street bus #14.

HOLLAND MUNICIPAL FARMERS’ MARKET

150 W. 8th St., May-Dec., Wed. and Saturdays, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. 616-355-1138

The basics: A canopied market with 112 sellers, just down the road from downtown Holland. Beyond fruits & veggies: Sellers hawk numerous artisan and organic cheeses, including Steve-N-Sons fiery Gouda by Jesse Meerman (see pg. 43 for more on Meerman). Insider tip: On Saturdays at 10 a.m., catch the cooking and flower-arranging demonstrations.

KALAMAZOO FARMERS’ MARKET

1204 Bank St., June-Oct. (Tue., Thu. and Sat. 7 a.m.-2 p.m.); May and Nov. (Sat. 7 a.m.-2 p.m.); Aug.-Sept. 11 (Tue., 3:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m., in addition to regular hours). 269-337-8899

The basics: Fifty-six vendors assembled on a site that has been used for 60 years, with brick walks and views of John Park. Beyond fruits & veggies: Got a hankering for meat and potatoes? Organic vendors offer up spuds, plus buffalo and elk meat. Insider tip: Otto’s Poultry Farm (Middleville, Mich.) sells savory hormone-free chicken and is a supplier to the hip Food Dance Café (see pg. 94 for more on Food Dance Cafe).

MUSKEGON – SWEETWATER LOCAL FOODS MARKET

Near Harvey St. and Pontaluna Road., June-Oct. Saturdays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; Nov.-May, alternating Saturdays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. 231-893-3937

The basics: This certified organic market, with up to 16 booths, runs year-round. Beyond fruits & veggies: Check out the organic bath products. Insider tip: Nathan Creswick makes and sells 20 kinds of scrumptious lamb, beef and pork sausages.

MUSKEGON FARMERS’ MARKET

700 Yuba St. May-Dec. Tue., Thu. and Sat., 7 a.m.-3 p.m. (Saturday only from Thanksgiving to Christmas). 231-722-3251

The basics: One of Michigan’s oldest markets, dating back to 1884, draws 120 vendors. Beyond fruits & veggies: Zingy beef jerky and bedding plants such as Zebra Grass are offered. Insider tip: Kathleen Riegler, known as the “Cheese Lady,” sells fine cheeses from around the world.

SAUGATUCK GREEN MARKET

400 Culver St. June-Oct. 12. Fridays, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. 269-857-2399

The basics: Twenty-four vendors under the historic beams of the Lloyd J. Harriss Pie Co., outside the Saugatuck Center for the Arts. Beyond fruits & veggies: Family-owned Providence Farms’ lamb, pork, chicken and turkey are all-organic. Insider tip: Black Tie Gourmet Mushrooms prepares, sautés and freezes yummy ’shrooms, so all that’s left to do is heat them up.

TRAVERSE CITY – SARA HARDY DOWNTOWN FARMERS’ MARKET

Grandview Pkwy. between Union and Cass streets. May-Oct., Saturdays 8 a.m.-noon; June-Sept., Wednesdays, 8 a.m.-noon. (Does not operate during Cherry Festival). 231-922-2050

The basics: Seventy vendors downtown along the Boardman River, with eye-popping views of Grand Traverse Bay. Beyond fruits & veggies: Organic meats and herbs, local breads and herbal soaps. Insider tip: While downtown, sip on a mug of coffee at funky Horizon Books.

Heritage Square, corner of Elm St. and Main Ave. June-Sept. Fridays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. 616-772-2494

The basics: An intimate downtown market with 10-12 vendors. Beyond fruits & veggies: Backyard Emporium crafts gorgeous Adirondack furniture. Insider tip: Perkin’s Restaurant brings in delectable, fresh-baked muffins and pies.

CROWN POINT FARMERS’ MARKET

South Main St., June-Sep. 29. Saturdays, 7 a.m. noon. 219-662-3290

The basics: Twenty-seven vendors gathered near the Courthouse Square. Beyond fruits & veggies: Find certified, farm-raised chicken eggs and pickles by Mary Jane Panozzo, from Dyer, and Labriola artisan bread from Tiffany’s Tea Room in Crown Point. Insider tip: Hit the nearby three-level Old Town Square Antique Mall.

HIGHLAND STREET MARKET

Kennedy and Highway Avenues. June-Oct. 13. Saturdays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. 219-838-0114

The basics: Fifteen vendors set up on both sides of a popular bike path. Beyond fruits & veggies: Great Harvest Bread, from Palos Heights, Ill., makes a fab Popeye bread chock-full of nuts and fruits. Don’t miss Mike and Sue Harts’ home-made doggie treats. Insider tip: If there’s another market with an on-site masseuse, we don’t know of it. Lisa Prevost can knead out the nastiest knots.

LAPORTE FARMERS’ MARKET

State St., north of LaPorte County Courthouse. May-Oct. Saturdays, 7 a.m.- noon. 219-362-8260

The basics: About a dozen vendors gather next to the county’s majestic, 1894 courthouse. Beyond fruits &

veggies: Keep it healthy with hormone-free bacon from Watts Family Farm (Lakeville) and Tuholski Meats (LaPorte). Insider tip: Crème de la Crop of Valparaiso sells organic produce and herbs on Aug. 11 and 25, and Sept. 8 and 22.

MICHIGAN CITY FARMERS’ MARKET

8th St. and Washington St. May-Oct., Saturdays, 8 a.m.-noon. 219-879-5807 or 800-622-1309

The basics: Fifteen to 18 venders gather in Michigan City’s historic downtown. Beyond fruits & veggies: Local churches operate a bake sale. Chicago chef Didier Durand brings in fresh-baked breads and cheeses, too. Insider tip: Billy Bob’s Farm sells a mean blueberry pie.

SCHERERVILLE’S INTERNATIONAL MARKET

Austen Avenue, between Route 30 and Joliet St. June-Oct. 25. Alternate Thursdays, 3 p.m.-8 p.m. 219-322-2211, ext. 326

The basics: Twenty-eight vendors in leafy Redar Park. Beyond fruits & veggies: Garwood Orchards of LaPorte, serves up tasty turnovers, crepes and pies, baked with fruit from their own pickins. Insider tip: Farm Direct Meat LLC will take your meat orders, then go to small farms for anything from bison to lamb.

SOUTH BEND FARMERS’ MARKET

1105 Northside Blvd. Year-round, Tuesdays and Thursdays, 7 a.m.-2 p.m. May-Sept., also Fridays, 7 a.m.-2 p.m. and Saturdays, 7 a.m.-3 p.m. 574- 282-1259

The Basics: Bustling bazaar jam-packed with 90 vendors in an H-shaped, year-round structure. Beyond fruits & veggies: Organic produce is harvested by Mary Kulwicki. Breadsmith, of South Bend, cranks out tasty coffee cakes adorned with apples. Insider Tip: Browse early before everything’s picked over. On Aug. 18 and Sep. 15, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., top area musicians jam near the main entrance.

VALPARAISO FARMERS’ MARKET

16 E. Lincolnway, Porter Co. Courthouse, May-Oct. Tue., Thu. and Sat., 8 a.m.-2 p.m. 219-464-8332

The basics: Downtown market with six to 12 local vendors on the courthouse lawn. Beyond fruits & veggies: Dennis King’s garden ornaments, from cats to one-of-a-kind designs, are welded from salvaged metal. Insider tip: Includes several organic vendors, including one selling free-range duck and chicken eggs.

CHICAGO’S GREEN CITY MARKET

South end of Lincoln Park, near 1750 N. Clark St. May-Oct. Wednesdays and Saturdays, 7 a.m.-1:30 p.m. 847-424-2486

The basics: Some 40 farmers from Illinois, Wisconsin and Michigan. Beyond fruits & veggies: Artisan cheeses and an array of fresh meats. Insider tip: Paul Friday Farms sells the Bubblegum Plum, which tastes like – you guessed it – bubble gum.

OAK PARK FARMERS’ MARKET – CHICAGO

Elmwood Ave. and Lake St. June-Oct. Saturdays, 7 a.m.-1 p.m. 708-358-5780

The basics: Twenty-plus vendors from four states gather near Pilgrim Church. Beyond fruits & veggies: Live bluegrass music will keep you hummin’ while you shop. Insider tip: Try S 3 Catering’s Stone Soup on Oct. 27. The local caterer collects the vegetables from the market’s farmers and brews up this mouth-watering soup.

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