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Among the several towns that rim Lake Michigan’s south shore, Ogden Dunes stands out with its pastoral mix of rolling hills, densely packed woods and — of course — the beach.
Fronted on one side by the water, and encased inside the Indiana Dunes National
Lakeshore, the town’s location keeps its boundaries from expanding. The town’s tough zoning laws prevent anything but single-family homes from being built (meaning zero retail business is within the town’s limits. Imagine, no corner gas station or convenience store. And definitely no Gap or Borders.)
What’s more, while many of the cities in Porter County lay claim to Alice Mable Gray, a fabled hermit who lived along the shore nearly a century ago and was dubbed “Diana of the Dunes” by the Chicago press, local historians say it was here that she lived before the town was officially established.
“Every town wants to lay claim to her. She actually lived here, but there’s a lot of mystery about where she actually lived (in town),” says Dawn Moore, treasurer for the Historical Society of Ogden Dunes. However, given the beauty of the area, it’s somewhat easy to see why Gray left the bustle of Chicago to live in a shack (or two, three or four shacks according to lore) by the lakeshore. “We’re a town rich in history,” Moore says.
With a lone road leading in and out of the small community nestled between the sides of the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, Ogden Dunes has an air of seclusion — you can see Chicago’s famous skyline and the bustling steel mills of the South Shore, but you’re enveloped by Lake Michigan’s beach. And while access is open to beach, you’ll need a sticker for permission to park along Shore Drive, which runs parallel to shore. Inland, old-growth trees and the rolling hills that famously sported what was once believed to be the nation’s largest snow ski jump, bring a quiet serenity to the town.
And that’s the lure that keeps current residents, and what attracts newcomers to the small community named after Frank Ogden, whose former estate provided the land for the fledgling town. “I think it’s just a special place,” Moore says. “Environmentally, you’ve got the beach. Those of us who grew up here, have a sentimental attachment to the town. It’s not overly developed.”
When Lou Gagliardi and his family moved to Ogden Dunes about two years ago he knew there was no other place like it along the lake.
“It’s my dream. I’ve got everything,” he said of the impressively sized home he’s almost finished building at the town’s beachfront northeast corner. “I just love it here. It’s just peaceful here. I can see the city of Chicago from my bedroom window; the lighthouse.”
JUST THE FACTS*
Population: 1,313 (49.7 percent male, 50.3 percent female)
Median age: 48.7
Median household income:$76,924
ON THE HOUSE
Average number of homes on
the market each year: 21
Median sales price: $399,900
A home in this price range will have around 2,400 square feet. And like its rich history, the homes currently on the market were built between 1948 and 2002.
Highest sales price: $1.12 Million
According to Ted Lelek, the owner and a broker for Lakeshore Realty, 2005 was the year of home improvement, partly spurred on by the glut of reality TV shows.
And with all the construction going on in Ogden Dunes, the trend is still going strong. Lelek said the trend has translated into how buyers look at homes on the market, possibly expecting “fixer-upper” price tags. “The properties that sold the fastest were those that buyers felt captured their notion of what it would be like to live by the beach,” he says. “These properties often had one or more of the following amenities: lake views, vintage charm, areas for outdoor entertaining or mature trees and garden. “Oaks and the real estate market will appreciate and grow with the village,” he says.
AROUND TOWN
While the town’s zoning laws only permit single-family homes, there are still a few hidden gems to see during a day trip.
1. See the site of the former Ogden Dunes Ski Jump at Kratz Field, 82 Hillcrest Road at Boat Club Road. Now a soccer field, a historical marker sits at the landing site. “Five annual events with international competitors were held 1928-1932, with 7,000 to 20,000 spectators. Reputed to be the largest artificial ski jump at the time,” partly reads the historical marker. If you’re brave, drive up narrow Ski Hill Road to get an idea of how tall — about 30 stories — the structure was.
2. Visit the Hour Glass Museum, 8 Lupine Lane, the unique residence is the Historical Society of Ogden Dunes’ permanent home. As its name suggests, the home, built in 1934 by O.D. Frank, has an hourglass theme throughout. The museum’s current exhibit, Artists of the Dunes, is expected to run through the end of summer. Museum tours are by appointment only. Visit the society’s Web site at
http://ogden_dunes.tripod.com/museum.html.
GETTING THERE
The roads to Ogden Dunes:
For Chicagoans, the choice is yours. You can take U.S. 41 or Interstate 80/90 south to the Indiana border. Leave the interstate at exit 12 northbound to Interstate 65. Take Interstated 65 to East Dune Highway. Follow eastbound on East Dune Highway (U.S. 12) to Ogden Dunes. Be alert. While the left turn into Ogden Dunes is clearly marked, it’s the only way in or out of town.
For Michiganders, follow Interstate 94 south to northbound exit 19. Take Crisman Road north to U.S. 12, turn left and then go straight to Ogden Dunes. Again, be alert. While the right turn into town is clearly marked, it’s the only way in or out of Ogden Dunes.
For South Bend-area residents, follow the Indiana Toll Road west to northbound exit 23. Then, continuing northbound, take Willowcreek Road to Crisman Road. Follow Crisman to U.S. 12. Go westbound on U.S. 12. Just like everyone else, be alert. The right turn into Ogden Dunes is clearly marked, but it’s the lone road in and out of town.
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