By Marianne Frantz

From the February/March 2006 Issue

Lake Magazine covers the hottest information on the Lake Michigan area.

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An all-around multi-tasker such as a quality off-dry Riesling is a good place to start. Loaded with refreshing crispness and pronounced aromas of apricot, honeysuckle and citrus, Riesling is as close to the perfect food wine as a wine can get. Typically aged in stainless steel and naturally high in acidity, Riesling brings purity of flavor along with enough zing to get the gastric juices flowing. Think lemon. Now think of lemon freshly squeezed on Dover sole. Get the picture? Acidity in wine enhances the flavor of the food and works to cleanse the palate in between bites. Better yet, Riesling can be crafted into a wide range of styles including bone-dry, off-dry, semi-sweet or sweet. In wine terms that means lots of pairing opportunities. Just a hint of sweetness in an off-dry bottle of Riesling is a great match with most appetizers and pairs well with springtime salads dressed with balsamic vinaigrette or poppyseed dressing. Drier versions can be served as starters while the sweetest examples are reserved for dessert.

In the vineyard, Riesling has the ability to express a sense of place, taking its unique flavors from locations around the globe. If you are interested in tasting a quality Riesling from an up-and-coming region, you do not have to travel far. Michigan vineyards are filled with plenty of mouthwatering sweethearts. Much like the grape’s native Deutschland, Michigan boasts a cooler growing climate, one in which quality Riesling vines thrives. One of the most widely planted white grapes in the state, Riesling from “the mitten” makes crisp, clean wines that exhibit real varietal character. In the Old Mission Peninsula region, Chateau Grand Traverse’s 2004 Dry Johannisberg Riesling ($11) is an ideal match for seafood or try the 2004 Semi-Dry Johannisberg Riesling ($11) with spicy foods and BBQ. For a taste of Northern Michigan, it is hard to beat Peninsula Cellars. Made in the German style, the 2004 Peninsula Cellars Semi-Dry Riesling ($14) features apricot, peach and floral aromas accented by a bit of sweetness and crisp acidity.

In Germany, Rieslings have aromas of apricot and white flower, lower alcohol and an indication of sweetness on the label: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese in increasing order of sweetness. 2004 Monchhof Estate Riesling ($15) and 2004 Richter Estate Riesling ($13) are reliable choices. Alsatian wines made just over the border are often-bone dry with a steely character and lots of mouthwatering acidity as exampled in the 2004 Trimbach Riesling ($17). In the U.S., California and Washington are the main growing regions for Riesling. Here the grape features riper apricot fruit with higher alcohol than its European counterpart. Sweet ones are labeled Late Harvest and are great sippers at the end of a meal. 2004 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling from Columbia Valley, Washington ($10) is perfect for pairing with seasonal fruit tarts.

For reds, look for a medium-bodied wine that can make the winter-to-spring transition such as an American Pinot Noir. Aptly depicted in the movie Sideways, Pinot Noir (much like the relationship of the film’s main characters) is thin-skinned, fragile and elusive from vineyard to glass. Native to France, Pinot Noir is the sole grape of the renowned wines of Burgundy. Here, the Pinot Noir makes earthy and leathery wines with hints of spice and mineral notes. Take the grape out of France and the flavor profile changes. American Pinot Noirs are fruity with lots of lip-smacking acidity. To avoid damage in the vineyard, Pinot Noir is typically grown in cooler growing regions where the grape can ripen slowly and perhaps catch a breeze every now and then. As with Riesling, Pinot Noir is an expressive grape that has the ability to create wines with a unique sense of place, reflecting the character of the region and the personality of the winemaker.

Local Lake examples of Pinot Noir are available and well worth the search. Wyncroft Wines in the Lake Michigan shore region crafts a high-quality 2002 Avonlea Vineyard Pinot Noir ($45) from estate-grown grapes. In the Leelanau Peninsula appellation, 2002 Bel Lago Vineyards Pinot Noir ($17) fills the glass with classic varietal aromas of cherry, berry and spice. Black Star Farms, also in Leelanau Peninsula, offers handcrafted wines, including a 2002 Arcturos Pinot Noir ($19) with earthy, peppery notes and supple tannins. Burgundy-styled Pinot Noirs, such as those crafted in Oregon, make excellent partners for roasted veal and grilled lamb. 2003 Argyle Pinot Noir ($30) from Oregon is fruit-forward with concentrated aroma and silky texture, tangy acidity and a long fruit finish. Great spots in California include the outer reaches of Sonoma and the Central Coast regions. Here the wines are fruity-styled making them great matches for meaty fish such as salmon or Ahi tuna. 2003 David Bruce Pinot Noir ($18) and 2003 Mark West Pinot Noir ($10) both from the Central Coast exhibit exciting wild berry, ripe strawberry and spice. Lip smacking acidity and soft tannins make Central Coast Pinots excellent food wines. In Sonoma, 2003 Saintsbury Pinot Noir ($24) and 2003 Migration Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($27) wines are big hits with pork roast and lamb chops.

Regardless of origin, Riesling and Pinot Noir are always packed with plenty of acidity and pronounced aromas, making them a welcomed addition to any springtime table. So uncork a bottle, raise a glass and melt away the winter blahs. Cheers.